Versace//(fash)//ionology

Let's say Versace is in fashion this season. This Year. Never stopped to be so, if we have a comprehensive look at fashion - to be really honest.
This post has been inspired at least 5 weeks ago, while watching the beautiful SS2012 collection  by Fausto Puglisi photographed by Oskar Cecere.

Fausto Puglisi, Ph Oskar Cecere - SS2012
Karen Mudler in Versace - 1991

 Gianni Versace - 1990

What really interested me and I consider a huge inspiration source are - above all: 
- color palette
- weight and substance of fabrics
- embroideries (that I love)

Linda Evangelista in Versace - Vogue Italia, February 1990

Searching the web to refresh my memories of the Nineties Decade in Versace's fashion gave me a genuine pleasure, brought me back to the beginnings of my interest in fashion but also enlightened me once again about Gianni's legend and incredible talent, creativeness and weight on style which will never be extinguished.
Trying to remain in this first parallel, between Versace and Puglisi's latest collection, I've also found a beautiful and updated use of clean silhouettes and mixed contrasting or complementary colors.

Fausto Puglisi SS2012, Ph Oskar Cecere
I really like and support Puglisi's work - as most of Fashion System does - since he looks to me as one of the most talented clothing "craftsmen" among the young italians. He shows to be a designer with a strong cultural background and a deep knowledge of our fashion roots, which is something that I always appreciate. Especially when it becomes the consistent starting point for a growth and development of new ideas, contemporary interpretations and an attitude to read with a fresh look some crucial moments of italian "grandeur" and talent. His Spring Summer Collection is a joy for the eyes, so fragrant and rich but never out of balance. Perfectly proportioned constructions, multicolored pleated panels, a lot of graphical effects created mixing flashy hues and precious garments full of movement, giving a dynamic boost to the juicy parade. Telling us a story that never looses its grip, like a perfect tailored "short", using a cinematographic term.

Going further on this "Versace's influence" topic, I will avoid mentioning the over-covered collaboration between H&M and Versace (which is going to be a one of a kind fashion hysteria starring all the maison's key themes and most celebrated collections).
I will talk, instead, about a specific Season designed by Gianni which is popping up everywhere this Fall, in term of trends.
I am focusing on the awesome and unforgotten "Fall Winter Bondage Collection" dated 1992.



Exactly ten year after, this winter, bondage/BDSM accessories can be found all over, revised and interpreted as the coolest of fashion accessories and "garments".
And, in particular, what I have in mind is something specific. And it goes under the name of "HARNESS".

The New York Times spotted the trend back in June 2011 starring Zana Bayne (blogger and designer) and her creations viewed on Lady Gaga's dancers, Chloe Sevigny shot by Thierry Richardson, Katy Perry and more celebs. Although this accessory has been talked about earlier this year and although it's been an often worn "object", both in show-business and in high fashion/vogueish/contempo-rotic shootings, I am convinced that it will have a wider audience. I am the first big fan (and I won't ever move my vintage Alessandro Dell'Acqua elastic one in a fav nude color...bless it for having saved soooo many looks): I am totally into such a versatile, meaningful, decorative armor. Especially because it can be styled on almost everything and designers are coming out with so many colorful versions (also tender, sorbet shades) and very intricately threaded wonders, looking like leather contemporary jewelry.

At the moment I have got a favourite designer (who I also heart for a variety of accessories he produces such as leather masks, belts, bags, hats...): Fleet Ilya. Apart from the fact that I am a huge supporter of the brand, I consider it particularly interesting for the way the designer maturated his experience and for bringing the "original" accessory to a brand new dimension and several applications.
Let's start from the fact that Ilya's father is a sculptor and he totally gave him a "plastic" way and an incredible ability to mould leather. With such a heritage he moved to a key training period under the guide of a master craftman and saddler. Later He started a collection with the creative collaboration of Resha Shama, a Central St. Martin's graduate who is the other 50% of the Fleet Ilya collections.

Here's just a bite of the FW 2011/12 Collectionsavailable on his online shop and selected boutiques worldwide:
The duo's SS 2012 collection is a pure trip into the art of deluxe fashion saddlery pushed beyond its "limits".
 
All previous pieces by Fleet Ilya - SS 2012

... to be continued soon...the bags just made me think about a new post about something else being much "en vogue" lately...
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