SAINT LAURENT MENSWEAR COLLECTION BY HEDI SLIMANE
I've been reading a lot of articles and reviews about the new Saint Laurent (by Hedi Slimane ndr) advertising campaign, starring Saskia de Brauw.
The campaign seems to have been perceived as provocative and controversial. Question Mark. Double question mark:
to me, it is exactly the opposite, couldn't think about anything more appropriate, in terms of image and atmosphere. For several reason: our contemporary sexual perception, our era, the (Yves) Saint Laurent roots, Hedi Slimane phloshophy.
Well, to me, Slimane just showed an epitome of both the brand's and his own philosophy. And I love it. As much as I love the iconic shot by Helmut Newton.
And Saskia de Brauw is such a stunning contemporary beauty: she blends sweet sophisticated delicateness with an intouchable sense of burning strength.
This Campaign immediately made me think of a set of shots by Hedi, taken last may and documenting/portraying the Savage, the post-punk band from London founded in March 2012 by Jehnny Beth (vocalist), Gemma Thompson (guitarist), Ayse Hassan (bassist), Fay Milton (drummer).
In particular, I had already been touched by the images of their Voice, Jenny Beth: they have something I can't explain, a flavor that tastes similar to the Campaign. Subtle.
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| Saint Laurent Menswear |
The campaign seems to have been perceived as provocative and controversial. Question Mark. Double question mark:
to me, it is exactly the opposite, couldn't think about anything more appropriate, in terms of image and atmosphere. For several reason: our contemporary sexual perception, our era, the (Yves) Saint Laurent roots, Hedi Slimane phloshophy.
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| Saint Laurent Menswear intepreted by Saskia de Brauw. |
Well, to me, Slimane just showed an epitome of both the brand's and his own philosophy. And I love it. As much as I love the iconic shot by Helmut Newton.
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| Helmut Newton - rue aubriot, for french vogue, paris, 1975 © helmut newton |
And Saskia de Brauw is such a stunning contemporary beauty: she blends sweet sophisticated delicateness with an intouchable sense of burning strength.
This Campaign immediately made me think of a set of shots by Hedi, taken last may and documenting/portraying the Savage, the post-punk band from London founded in March 2012 by Jehnny Beth (vocalist), Gemma Thompson (guitarist), Ayse Hassan (bassist), Fay Milton (drummer).
In particular, I had already been touched by the images of their Voice, Jenny Beth: they have something I can't explain, a flavor that tastes similar to the Campaign. Subtle.
BALLET BY HENRY LEUTWYLER
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| Photos by Henry Leutwyler, from the book and exibit Ballet - via New York Magazine // The Cut |
I've been missing this so too much. But now, at least part of that same feeling, is back. Back to the hard work.
Have a look to the beautiful photos by Henry Leutwyler (taken backstage @ New York City Ballet) and read the article by Rebecca Milzoff.
MY PUPPET LOOK #2
Dream Look today, inspired by 007 - SKYFALL
Some FW12 Proenza Schouler on some SS13 Prada wanted pieces.
I am still dreaming and dieing for that Shangai skyline and Macao dragons on the water.
Some FW12 Proenza Schouler on some SS13 Prada wanted pieces.
I am still dreaming and dieing for that Shangai skyline and Macao dragons on the water.
KOWTOW APPAREL
KOWTOW is a chinese expression meaning "the act of deep respect shown by kneeling and bowing so low as to have your head touching the ground." I am already taken.
The brand behind the logo and its philosophy is something I would "KOWTOW" to. And not only for the garments, but for the very DNA of the project, that has earned important acknowledgements.
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| Gosia Piatek, founder and owner |
The founder, Gosia Piatek, started the company with a very low budget, wanting her business to be ethical. And she made it possible through collections that are not only made of 100% fairtrade certified cotton but that are beautifully minimal, perfect for layering and awesome as basics to build up very personal looks.
I was really impressed looking at the "Behind the scenes" video, shot by Piatek's ex business partner, Boofa.
Kowtow In India from Kowtow on Vimeo.
Talking about KOWTOW Collections. They just presented their Southern Hemisphere 2013 Winter (the brand is based in New Zeland) "Anywhere But Here" Collection, inspired by the themes of revolution and lost youth. Piatek says 'I wanted to create a wearable collection that can cross all age groups but still has a sense of edge and freshess". Well, I'd define the concept very contemporary. I've been thinking about how the idea of biological age has been slightly fading lately. And also Fashion seems to be aware of it (just think about some Lanvin and American Apparel ADVs). Going back to "Anywhere but here", I like the way this sense of rebellion blends to garments conceived for people of all ages. We can all be youthful rebels nowadays. Look at the short movie they produced to express the soul of this collection.
Blacks, whites, energetic flashes of bright orange and prints plus a triangular pattern. Fluid silhouettes, unexpected volumes, versatile styling options.
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| From the lookbook of Kowtow "Anywhere but here" Collection |
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| Womens Building Blocks |
MY PUPPET LOOK #1
I introduce you the graceful "Mrs Puppet" (thank you MMM) who will gracefully play myself when I want to post random looks.
What I was wearing today:
the magnificent Neil Barrett Oversized Single Breasted Coat in black;
a red silk vintage shirt;
black leather leggings;
red patent kitten heels by Zara.
The coat is great in volume and really looks like the right picture. Sorry for not having found a better image of the front...
the magnificent Neil Barrett Oversized Single Breasted Coat in black;
a red silk vintage shirt;
black leather leggings;
red patent kitten heels by Zara.
The coat is great in volume and really looks like the right picture. Sorry for not having found a better image of the front...
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| On the left: MRS puppet wearing Neil Barrett coat. On the right, Neil Barrett FW2012 (same coat, better image) |
SASKIA DIEZ ACCESSORIES
Saskia Diez presents "L'enfer 2012", a film by meyers bureau.
A sparkly and dreamy short movie. Starring the pure, clean, feminine jewelry collections by the brand.
PRINTS AND PATTERNS: DIGILICIOUSLY COVERED
It is no secret that I am very sensitive about printed fabrics. Especially whimsical digital prints. I obviously have a selection of the Top Favorite Designers mastering the technique...let's mention Peter Pilotto, Basso & Brooke, Mary Katrantzou but also Dries van Noten, Alexander McQueen, Prada (remember beaches and palms from their SS10 Collection?).
Fact: digital prints have turned into almost-a-classic-trend lately
Fact: you can find digital print sweaters, tees, leggings, skirts and dresses almost everywhere, almost by any label.
Now you're probably thinking how boring I am, pretending to post about digital prints while everyone around has done it for seasons now?
Well, I think I do have a reason, and to me it is a very yummy one. Before showing you what a wonderful thing I found (even if you are way more ahead, internet-conscious and aware of everything new) I want to mention the latest project by the incredibly talented Masha Reva. The young Ukrainan designer artist has teamed up with Syndacate of Kiev for "Botanical Layers", a collection of prints available on a limited shirts series this month. You can already order yours by choosing one of the subjects and your size here. Well, have a look to these wonders: digital layers anddigital/era/codes interlocked with luxurious nature.
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| Botanical Layers by Masha Reva and SYNDACATE of Kiev - ph Synchrodogs |
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| Botanical Layers by Masha Reva and SYNDACATE of Kiev - ph Synchrodogs |
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| Botanical Layers by Masha Reva and SYNDACATE of Kiev - ph Synchrodogs |
Going back to the point: Constrvct.
Created, designed and coded by Mary Huang and Jenna Fizel, known as Continuum Fashion, already known for innovative high tech fashion design, including LED dresses and the N12 3D printed bikini.
Let me just quote a sort of manifesto published on their blog:
"...This moment in history will be marked as where the voices of millions
can be instantly expressed and shared across virtual networks. Technology has changed the way we live and communicate. We created
CONSTRVCT as a fashion label born purely from the digital medium--
fashion design that represents immediate personal expression distributed
globally..." and "...Please, go ahead and construct as many designs as you like! It’s
wonderful to see what people come up with. Just upload your own images
and choose between the available styles. Once you have a design you
love, you can order it custom made to your size."
Yes, exactly, get ready to indulge yourself with your graphic skills and start playing with the available styles: 3 dresses, 1 male and 1 female tee, a long sleeved tee, a skirt. At this point I get very excited. And, if you want, you just take send them your measurements and "voilà ": you got your wonderfully digital printed piece delivered at home.
I am not a real master yet, but just to have an idea about it...these are my first "babies"...
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| A chandelier @ the flea market becomes the "Crystal skirt" |
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| A bamboo garden inspires the "Bamboo Dress" (yes, how acreative name...!) |
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| A tree in the mountains becomes the "Fallen skirt" |
A promise: I will be back soon with much better works....you can also check the whole collective collection here.
Opinions?
ANDREW GN RESORT COLLECTION & ONE FALL AFTERNOON
It happened that I was in the Alps last weekend and I had the chance to loose myself into the vivid colors and scents of Fall. A very nurturing and refreshing experience for my eyes and for my imagination, after weeks spending my days and night in front of another window: my laptop screen...!
Going through images of 2013 Resort Collections I have been captured by Andrew GN's one. Same vibrant colors and classic beauty I have experienced just a few days ago. Precious fabrics, bermuda pants glorified by volumes, precious embroideries, perfect colorful evening gowns. Every ensemble would make a perfect wardrobe for the upcoming Holiday Season... have a look to the whole collection.
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| Instagram taken by me, Andrew GN Resort 2013 via Style.com |
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| Instagram taken by me, Andrew GN Resort 2013 via Style.com |
UNIQUENESS OR MY ENDLESS CRUSH FOR PINK FLAMINGOS
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| Photo by Klaus Nigge |
No wonder, then, if I am obsessed by a couple looks by Uniqueness (obsessed by two, but love most of the pieces...) 2.01 Collection, designed by Alessandra Facchinetti.
Above is look #35. The side of the pants are covered in a genial digital pattern of my fav bird and salmon pink feathers. I am a follower of the Uniqueness Pinterest account: the "Shades of Rose" board includes some very impressive inspirational images which suggested me this composition. Poetic and delicate. The look is very balanced: romantic yet contemporary with the strong caban jacket, rich in volume but very clean. The whole look is made to blend with grey shades of metropolitan winter skies. Like the palette of this Liu Wei's artwork "Beyond the sky limits", perfectly translating this idea.
And here is Look #39, a long dress with a Seventies attitude, enriched by the same precious print and perfectly styled with the same accessories. Just made me want to cover the model's skin with a simphony of soft colored clouds.
Enjoy this rainy Sunday morning thinking pink and dreamy!
IT'S BEEN ONE YEAR: AND NOT A COMMON ONE
Twelve months and some days from my last post.
I knew that the year that I just left behind was one of those I would never forget. And going through my Instagrams I really felt the consistency of what has happened into my life since November 2011.
A new life. New professional opportunities and horizons, brought to me like gifts from the best of my friends. New places, new tribe members, new feelings. A big love making my life the most special one. A new approach to fashion and the discovery of the "beauté" world. A lot of planes and a lot of diy nail art. Emotions. So deep and colorful to make me shiver most of the time.
I feel much better, somehow reliefed and, most of all, conscious.
A YELLOW PATH
During Women SS2012 Fashion week in Paris, Sonia Rykiel welcomed her guests into a location strongly dominated by a thick yellow lined catwalk, reminding me of the "Yellow Brick Road" from The Wonderful Wizard of Oz.
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| Sonia and Nathalie Rykiel - Paris, SS2012 Show |
As you should understood I really love primary colors and, even more, street signs//signs in general because they are an incredible graphic communication code and for their contemporaneity and function into cities esthetic. Let's also think, for example, on how yellow appears inside our metropolis: architecture, lights, advs....
I am so curious about how our context reflects itself onto how we appear, how we communicate ourselves....how we choose to dress.
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| Milano, Depositi ATM Ticinese |
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| Milano |
Starting from here and going to the SS2012 collections, here's something that fits properly to my idea. From dawn to dust. Urban, city looks with different edgy yellow touches.
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| From left: Spring Summer 2012 - Emilio De La Morena, Issey Miyake, Marc Jacobs, Marni, JV Anderson |
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| Marni, Spring Summer 2012 |
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| From Left - Spring Summer 2012 - Sonia Rykiel, Nicole Fahri, Red Krakoff - ph Hakan Dahlstrom |
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| Metamorphosis - installation by Foscarini//Qubique – Tradeshow Next Generation - Berlin-Tempelhof Airport |
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| From Left - Spring Summer 2012 - Gary Graham, Lacoste, J Mendel, Nicole Miller, Pringle of Scotland, Marni |
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| Artemisia Gentileschi, Mary Magdalen |
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| From Left - Spring Summer 2012 - Emilio della Morena, Derek Lam, Elie Saab, Elie Tahari, Moschino, Rodarte |
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| From Left - Spring Summer 2012 - Sass&Bide, 3.1 Phillip Lim |
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