Versace//(fash)//ionology

Let's say Versace is in fashion this season. This Year. Never stopped to be so, if we have a comprehensive look at fashion - to be really honest.
This post has been inspired at least 5 weeks ago, while watching the beautiful SS2012 collection  by Fausto Puglisi photographed by Oskar Cecere.

Fausto Puglisi, Ph Oskar Cecere - SS2012
Karen Mudler in Versace - 1991

 Gianni Versace - 1990

What really interested me and I consider a huge inspiration source are - above all: 
- color palette
- weight and substance of fabrics
- embroideries (that I love)

Linda Evangelista in Versace - Vogue Italia, February 1990

Searching the web to refresh my memories of the Nineties Decade in Versace's fashion gave me a genuine pleasure, brought me back to the beginnings of my interest in fashion but also enlightened me once again about Gianni's legend and incredible talent, creativeness and weight on style which will never be extinguished.
Trying to remain in this first parallel, between Versace and Puglisi's latest collection, I've also found a beautiful and updated use of clean silhouettes and mixed contrasting or complementary colors.

Fausto Puglisi SS2012, Ph Oskar Cecere
I really like and support Puglisi's work - as most of Fashion System does - since he looks to me as one of the most talented clothing "craftsmen" among the young italians. He shows to be a designer with a strong cultural background and a deep knowledge of our fashion roots, which is something that I always appreciate. Especially when it becomes the consistent starting point for a growth and development of new ideas, contemporary interpretations and an attitude to read with a fresh look some crucial moments of italian "grandeur" and talent. His Spring Summer Collection is a joy for the eyes, so fragrant and rich but never out of balance. Perfectly proportioned constructions, multicolored pleated panels, a lot of graphical effects created mixing flashy hues and precious garments full of movement, giving a dynamic boost to the juicy parade. Telling us a story that never looses its grip, like a perfect tailored "short", using a cinematographic term.

Going further on this "Versace's influence" topic, I will avoid mentioning the over-covered collaboration between H&M and Versace (which is going to be a one of a kind fashion hysteria starring all the maison's key themes and most celebrated collections).
I will talk, instead, about a specific Season designed by Gianni which is popping up everywhere this Fall, in term of trends.
I am focusing on the awesome and unforgotten "Fall Winter Bondage Collection" dated 1992.



Exactly ten year after, this winter, bondage/BDSM accessories can be found all over, revised and interpreted as the coolest of fashion accessories and "garments".
And, in particular, what I have in mind is something specific. And it goes under the name of "HARNESS".

The New York Times spotted the trend back in June 2011 starring Zana Bayne (blogger and designer) and her creations viewed on Lady Gaga's dancers, Chloe Sevigny shot by Thierry Richardson, Katy Perry and more celebs. Although this accessory has been talked about earlier this year and although it's been an often worn "object", both in show-business and in high fashion/vogueish/contempo-rotic shootings, I am convinced that it will have a wider audience. I am the first big fan (and I won't ever move my vintage Alessandro Dell'Acqua elastic one in a fav nude color...bless it for having saved soooo many looks): I am totally into such a versatile, meaningful, decorative armor. Especially because it can be styled on almost everything and designers are coming out with so many colorful versions (also tender, sorbet shades) and very intricately threaded wonders, looking like leather contemporary jewelry.

At the moment I have got a favourite designer (who I also heart for a variety of accessories he produces such as leather masks, belts, bags, hats...): Fleet Ilya. Apart from the fact that I am a huge supporter of the brand, I consider it particularly interesting for the way the designer maturated his experience and for bringing the "original" accessory to a brand new dimension and several applications.
Let's start from the fact that Ilya's father is a sculptor and he totally gave him a "plastic" way and an incredible ability to mould leather. With such a heritage he moved to a key training period under the guide of a master craftman and saddler. Later He started a collection with the creative collaboration of Resha Shama, a Central St. Martin's graduate who is the other 50% of the Fleet Ilya collections.

Here's just a bite of the FW 2011/12 Collectionsavailable on his online shop and selected boutiques worldwide:
The duo's SS 2012 collection is a pure trip into the art of deluxe fashion saddlery pushed beyond its "limits".
 
All previous pieces by Fleet Ilya - SS 2012

... to be continued soon...the bags just made me think about a new post about something else being much "en vogue" lately...

Black&White // Minimal Art

Esther Stocker - O.T., 2006, installation

Hard Times these Times. Austerity is an often talked about issue these days. Austerity is a concept and a state of mind. Doesn't mean "poverty//poorness//shabbiness" to me. In my idea it is more about deconstruction. Going to the original simplicity of things. Take all the tinsells away and discover the real essence of things. 
Mumbling about this idea I went through some b/w minimal art, late 60ies Design and some SS2012 W Collections.

Square Dance - Kazuya Akimoto Art Museum

Quaderna by Zanotta

When it comes to fashion, black and white graphical patterns is very interesting to me because it underlines the geometry of shapes, textures and fabrics. As for Deisgn, when graphic minimalism comes to Clothing//Fashion it frames the body and traces its dimensions, placing it in the space. Becomes real architecture of the human body. Geometry.

From Left to Right, Spring Summer 2012 - JeanPierre Braganza, J Mendel, Emporio Armani

Spring Summer 2012 - Gareth Pugh

Installations by Esther Stocker

Spring Summer 2012 - Neil Barrett

I JUST CAN'T HELP FALLING IN LOVE WITH THIS BRAND
AGAIN
AND
AGAIN AND AGAIN
AND
AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN

FLOOOOOOWEEEEEER BOOOOOOOOOOOOMB

Gardening is one of my numberless passions. But it is in the hall of fame of my favorite things. Maybe because it reminds me of my childhood and me and my father spending our sundays together with our hands into the soil. He was a real "Green thumb" and I got this from him: one of my dreams is a city terrace or garden where I could experience this joy again.

In the meantime, since I do not own nor a garden or a balcony, I enjoy visiting public gardens, Gardening/Flower oriented Fairs and events and being totally in love with peonias and antique roses.
As already introduced in the previous post, I've been to "Orticolario" a weekend ago and lost myself in the beauty of the location and variety of green species.


Today I am collecting here the best of flower prints/shapes/garments I saw among SS2012 WFS. Food for my soul.


#1 - Chunky//Digital//3D
Chanel - Spring Summer 2012
Like these leather_hotp's_with_a_strong_touch_of_Sugar_sweetness. And the booties. Rock'a'rolla!
Hussein Chalayan - Spring Summer 2012
Not mentioning that I am a long time fan of Mr Chalayan, his collection was full of vivid digital prints with such a vivid real 3d effect to look like projected and framed on bodies.


I really got inspired by Mary Karantzou's four colors flower installation.
From Left to Right: Spring Summer 2011 - Albino, Nicole Fahri, Albino
Mary Karantzou - Spring Summer 2012
All background flower images and patterns taken @ Orticolario - Villa Erba (Como) with Hipstamatic App for iPhone

#2 - A carpet of tiny colorful flowers
Giambattista Valli - Spring Summer 2012
Christofer Kane - Spring Summer 2012
From Left to Right: Spring Summer 2012 - Christofer Kane, Cynthia Rowley, Antonio Marras
From Left to Right: Spring Summer 2012 - Band of Outsiders, all the other looks by Erdem (UberChiC!!!!)

All background flower images and patterns taken @ Orticolario - Villa Erba (Como) with Hipstamatic App for iPhone